On a day trip from Tacloban City to Basey, Samar, I visited Sohoton Cave - the most beautiful and well-preserved cave system I’ve visited across the Philippines, so far.

In Catbalogan City, I visited the weekly market next to the Provincial Capitol. This was a city where local delicacies reigned. Forever known as the day I ate (at least a good chunk of!) all that kakanin.

From the mainland port in Allen, Northern Samar, I made my way to Biri Island. There really is no substitute for seeing the striations in the rock up close, standing on those cliffs, feeling the wind whip you with fierceness when it wanted.

From Matnog, Sorsogon, I took a boat to Capul Island, halfway across the channel - an island so well documented along the galleon route for good reason. Watching waves from the Pacific crash into the Philippine seas, from a lighthouse looking over San Bernardino Strait, was like a scene from a dream.

On a day trip to the island of Bagatao, I visited the marker for a 16th-century astilyero, where galleons that sailed across the Pacific were built by local carpenters.

A cabin by the beach, on a cove that opened into Ticao Pass, was everything I wanted.

In the town of Donsol, I swam with whale sharks and watched incredible sunsets.

From pandesal carts to fancy restaurants and local chains, definitely a variety of places to eat in Naga!

In Naga, I delved into the classics - Bicol Express, laing, kinunot, kinalas. Naga People’s Mall is easily one of my favourite markets!

It really all began in Daet, Camarines Norte, the first stop in my southward trip through the Bicol region.

The island felt rugged, distant and painfully beautiful.

In Catanduanes, I connected with the landscape around me in ways I had never before.

In the town of Camalig, where specialists reside, pinangat is an emblem of the local foodways.

Under the perfect cone’s gaze - as the communities around it grew, over centuries - people thrived within it, too. From Legazpi City, I took day trips to the towns of Ligao, Guinobatan, Camalig, and Tiwi in the foothills of the still active Mayon Volcano.

A list of the provinces of the Philippines, with places I’ve visited marked in bold. Map courtesy of the wildly popular My Philippines Travel Level!