EP 27: For the Love of Panaderia and Philippine Bakery Traditions
This episode, we dive into the world of traditional Philippine bakeries - called "panaderia" - with authors Amy Uy and Jenny Orillos. Through the breads, biscuits, cakes and other treats found in panaderias across the Philippines, Amy and Jenny share with us a little bit of the history - and a whole lot of the culture - surrounding foods like pan de sal, ensaymada, biscocho and plain unfrosted chiffon.
We'll also hear about baking with sourdough in New York, making hundreds of ensaymadas during the lockdown, and how a classic panaderia treat makes its way to homes across the US.
You might want to find - or make - something fresh out of the oven soon!
Show notes
01:50 A snapshot of Philippine foodways
04:45 Meet Amy and Jenny
08:00 How the book started
11:00 The neighbourhood bakery
13:50 When hot pan de sal arrived
16:50 90s pan de Manila
19:30 An anthropological approach
20:45 Field work: pugon
22:30 "May kilala ka ba?" Do you know anyone?
24:05 Categorizing and identifying breads
25:30 How the project expanded
27:50 Why it made me think about relationships
31:10 More than just a travelogue
35:00 Ensaymadas of Pampanga
37:00 Maestro panadero's measurements
39:35 Laoag's biscocho pasuquin, two ways
44:00 Batangas highway bonete
48:00 At the heart of pasalubong culture
49:30 Biscuits of Quezon, Cebu, Iloilo and Baguio
53:30 A visit to El Ideal in Silay, Negros
56:10 Does it have be something we grow up with...in order to survive?
1:02:30 Ube cheese pan de sal: a historical marker
1:06:10 Birthday mocha cakes and unfrosted chiffon with orange soda
1:13:20 Meet Amelia
1:16:10 A visit to TOYO Eatery's panaderia
1:18:45 Making sourdough pan de sal at home
1:21:25 Meet Tina
1:24:40 Making over 200 ensaymadas
1:26:20 All about enriched dough
1:33:05 Maria's classic pan de coco
Links for this episode
Visit the Panaderia website. Then, follow the official Panaderia Facebook page for updates!
Required reading: “The Path of Pan de Sal” and “The Story of Ensaymada” by Jenny Orillos, and “After 100 years of pan de sal, Panaderia Dimas-Alang stands strong” by Amy Uy. Just a sampling of their incredible work!
The listing for Panaderia: Philippine Bread, Biscuit and Bakery Traditions from Anvil Publishing, based in the Philippines. Please note that this book has been out-of-print for several years (as of early 2021). If you find yourself thinking “I would order that book right now!” after listening to this episode - please send an email to the publisher! While it won’t make the book magically appear, I like to believe that direct customer feedback is likely our best shot at establishing a significant market for a reprint, both locally and internationally. (And I’d love if you could mention the podcast, or my book review!)
Find studio food editor Amelia Rampe’s lovely essays - with recipes - for sourdough pan de sal and beginner-friendly dinners at The Kitchn, and follow her on Instagram @ameliarampe.
Follow Tina @eggmarksthespot and check out her blog.
Browse through Amusing Maria’s recipes and shop for treats through @amusingmaria.